Flow State Of Mind

Black and white picture of surfer in a barrel surfing in a wave in south of France

words by Lottie Lewis & pictures by Bjorn Haeck

Gijs Van Den Berg
Bénédicte Emery
Boy Smit

What is surfing to you?
Is it fun, exercise, escape, expression?

Everyone's reason for paddling out is as unique as their style of surfing. Some of us surf like fire - big hacks and sharp turns and tearing down the line. Some of us surf to be at one with the earth - reading the water and drawing long, flowing lines down the face. Some of us surf for pure-play - party waves and joyously cross-stepping our way across the ocean's surface. Our emotions are so easily translated through how we surf; sometimes, that guy hassling you in the lineup just needs a break.

Maybe give him some space. Our individual style defines us. Like the music we make, the art we create, or our work, surfing can be as much of a creative outlet as putting paint to paper or words to a song. And in the same way that art is subjective, style is a matter of perception. Open to interpretation.


Open to interpretation. This freedom of expression makes us all artists.
Is it fun, exercise, escape, expression?

Often a rider's style is dictated by the board itself. Surfing is thought to have originated in Polynesia, where cave paintings dating back to the 12th Century can be found. These first surfers would have been riding finless planks of wood, carved from indigenous trees and crafted into boards. When surfing reached Hawaii it became a very important part of their religion. It was so much more than just a sport. This soul surfing transcended through the generations and the boards developed alongside it. The long-boarders and single fin riders that you see today probably bear the most resemblance to these first Hawaiians, using the long, drawn-out turns and board space to experiment, explore and escape, totally at one with the water and waves. 

Ambassador Bjorn Haeck standing tall on a longboard surfboard on a small wave in sunny France, wearing wetsuit 

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